I was starting to think that it would never work. It had been almost a year since I received the projector and I had barely gotten anywhere. Once again, the projector sat on a shelf until December. I was able to get the high voltage arc to stop by unplugging the BL cable from the main board, so I was starting go get some where. I reassembled it and tried to figure it out with more research and more trial and error. I came back to it in the summer and tried again. The projector sat in pieces on a shelf for a couple of months while I was busy with school and other things. I found the three ICs that I thought were the optocouplers and through trial, error, and almost bricking the whole projector I was right back where I started. I started to dissemble the projector even more all the way down to the power supply. I gathered from my research that I had to bridge the optocoupler that controlled that bulb to trick into thinking that it was working fine. I did some more research and found that some projectors use optocouplers which are used to measure the feed back from the bulb (see the photo for a full illustration of how one works). With no luck on the logic board I turned my sights to the main power supply. ON THE OTHER HAND, THE ORANGE WIRE NEEDS TO BE CUT OFF OF THE CONNECTOR. DO NOT SIMPLY CUT THE WIRES OFF OF THE CONNECTOR. THE WIRES SHOULD BASICALLY BRIDGE THE CONNECTOR. WHEN CUTTING AND TYING THE WIRES TOGETHER MAKE SURE TO CUT A COUPLE INCHES AWAY FROM THE CONNECTOR. RC - Remote control (Since i did not have a remote for the projector and did not want to buy one I removed this wire and sensor) BL - High voltage and lamp check circuit ( This is the wire set that I finally figured out was the one I needed to focus on ) LF - Bottom fan cover sensor ( The two wires on this connector need to be cut and tied together if you want to be able to run the projector with out the fan cover ) FF - Fan LL - Lamp cover sensor ( The two wires on this connector need to be cut and tied together if you want to be able to run the projector with out the lamp cover ) Q - Temperature sensor FN - Fan There was also a set of colored wires in one connector that I also recorded, but these ended up not being needed to modify the projector. After I recorded all the wires in each state, I made some assumptions as to what each set of wires went to. I was lucky to find that each set of wires was labeled, but it was only abbreviations. I used my multimeter with the ground connected to a grounding point on the projector and started measuring values of all the wires going to the main logic board. My intent was to find the logic signal that was telling the the board that there was a problem with the bulb. I removed the top case and accessed the main logic board. Reading it I found the section that addressed the indicators: Power, Bulb, Temperature. There are three possible states for each indicator: Solid Green, which indicates Normal operation Blinking Green, which indicates Starting up and Solid Red, which indicates a problem. All I was able to find was the user manual. I did some research online to try and find any documentation on the projector. I then repeated that process a second and third time to ensure consistency. I shut off the main power switch the red lights turned off. After about 3 seconds the bulb status light started to blink, and after about 5 minutes the projector shut off and both lights turned red. along with two green lights that indicated Power and Bulb. The fans came on and I could hear the sound of the fans and a faint ticking sound. The first thing that I wanted to do before I started taking the projector apart was to see how it currently ran.
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